Chapter 3

 •  28 min. read  •  grade level: 8
 
BETHLEHEM, JORDAN, JERICHO
O Zion, when thy Savior came
In grace and love to thee,
No beauty in thy royal Lord
Thy faithless eye could see.
JERUSALEM and all its suburbs became familiar to me, and as we had rambled over the surrounding mountains and valleys, we turned towards Bethlehem, and yearned to stand on the banks of the memorable River Jordan. All arrangements for the journey having been made, we patiently awaited the arrival of our caravan.
We rose at four o'clock in the morning, and had a good walk on Olivet. Ibrahim, our dragoman, the muleteer and animals, arrived, and at six o'clock we took to our saddles, and started on our long-anticipated journey. A company of young Arabs for several minutes ran after us crying for bachshish. We granted their requests, and showers of blessings were poured on our heads by the Mohammedans.
We passed by the Jaffa Gate, and descended into the Valley of Gihon, which was already familiar to us. We passed the Valley of Rephaim, and here we were reminded of Joshua 15:88And the border went up by the valley of the son of Hinnom unto the south side of the Jebusite; the same is Jerusalem: and the border went up to the top of the mountain that lieth before the valley of Hinnom westward, which is at the end of the valley of the giants northward: (Joshua 15:8). As we proceeded our thoughts turned to the son of Jesse, who defeated the Philistines in this place. As we still mused over this Scriptural and historical incident we were informed that before us was the Well of the Magi.
Here tradition says that the wise men, when they departed from Herod, knew not where to go, and after wandering about weary and worn with fatigue, they found this well. Here they stooped to draw water, and suddenly they beheld the star reflected in the well. They then continued their journey until they came to the place where the infant Redeemer was born. Having a good view of the landscape here, we thought that most likely this well was the fountain of Nephtoah (Josh. 15:99And the border was drawn from the top of the hill unto the fountain of the water of Nephtoah, and went out to the cities of mount Ephron; and the border was drawn to Baalah, which is Kirjath-jearim: (Joshua 15:9)).
With much interest we passed on until we found ourselves at the Convent of Elijah. We are told that here the prophet rested when fleeing to Beersheba from Jezebel. A smooth piece of rock is shown, which tradition says the prophet rested on, and the marks are supposed to be visible which were impressed on the hard rock by his body as he lay asleep; and we thought of 1 Kings 19:44But he himself went a day's journey into the wilderness, and came and sat down under a juniper tree: and he requested for himself that he might die; and said, It is enough; now, O Lord, take away my life; for I am not better than my fathers. (1 Kings 19:4).
With delight we continued our journey through the country, and to the Tomb of Rachel.
From childhood we had heard so much of the pathetic story of "Mother Rachel," that we were overcome with feelings of tenderness and awe when our wish from childhood was fulfilled, and our eyes gazed on the tomb so sacred to every Jewish mind. We remembered how we offered many prayers to Mother Rachel with tears streaming down our cheeks, expressive of deep emotion which can only be understood by pious Jews. Here we sat down and rested, and read the pathetic story.
“And they journeyed from Bethel; and there was but a little way to come to Ephrath: and Rachel travailed, and she had hard labor. And it came to pass, when she was in hard labor, that the midwife said unto her, Fear not; thou shalt have this son also. And it came to pass, as her soul was in departing (for she died), that she called his name Ben-oni: but his father called him Benjamin. And Rachel died, and was buried in the way to Ephrath, which is Bethlehem. And Jacob set a pillar upon her grave: that is the pillar of Rachel's grave unto this day “(Gen. 35:16-2016And they journeyed from Beth-el; and there was but a little way to come to Ephrath: and Rachel travailed, and she had hard labor. 17And it came to pass, when she was in hard labor, that the midwife said unto her, Fear not; thou shalt have this son also. 18And it came to pass, as her soul was in departing, (for she died) that she called his name Ben-oni: but his father called him Benjamin. 19And Rachel died, and was buried in the way to Ephrath, which is Bethlehem. 20And Jacob set a pillar upon her grave: that is the pillar of Rachel's grave unto this day. (Genesis 35:16‑20)).
We mounted our mules, and continued our journey to Bethlehem. What delightful narratives we were here reminded of! On approaching the town, we met groups of Bethlehemite women, who greeted us with many smiles and hearty salaams. We then viewed David's Well. We thought of the Sweet Singer of Israel, when, famishing with thirst, he said, "Oh that one would give me drink of the water of the well of Bethlehem, that is at the gate! And the three [men] brake through the host of the Philistines, and drew water out of the well of Bethlehem, that was by the gate, and took it, and brought it to David: but David would not drink of it, but poured it out to the Lord. And said, My God forbid it me, that I should do this thing; shall I drink the blood of these men that have put their lives in jeopardy?" (1 Chron. 11:17-1917And David longed, and said, Oh that one would give me drink of the water of the well of Bethlehem, that is at the gate! 18And the three brake through the host of the Philistines, and drew water out of the well of Bethlehem, that was by the gate, and took it, and brought it to David: but David would not drink of it, but poured it out to the Lord, 19And said, My God forbid it me, that I should do this thing: shall I drink the blood of these men that have put their lives in jeopardy? for with the jeopardy of their lives they brought it. Therefore he would not drink it. These things did these three mightiest. (1 Chronicles 11:17‑19)).
The views of the fields near Bethlehem were very picturesque. As we gazed on the green fields and looked at the women and men at work, we beheld living illustrations of Ruth gleaning after the reapers, when Boaz, seeing her, loved her, and took her to wife. Everything round here was charming. "The little hills rejoice on every side. The pastures are clothed with flocks; the valleys also are covered over with corn; they shout for joy, they also sing" (Psa. 65:12, 1312They drop upon the pastures of the wilderness: and the little hills rejoice on every side. 13The pastures are clothed with flocks; the valleys also are covered over with corn; they shout for joy, they also sing. (Psalm 65:12‑13)).
Here we were charmed as we read through the book of Ruth. The whole story was as a living panorama spread before us. It was when looking to this place that Micah made the wonderful prophecy, "Thou Bethlehem Ephratah, though thou be little among the thousands of Judah, yet out of thee shall He come forth unto Me that is to be ruler in Israel; whose goings forth have been from of old, from everlasting" (Micah 5:22But thou, Bethlehem Ephratah, though thou be little among the thousands of Judah, yet out of thee shall he come forth unto me that is to be ruler in Israel; whose goings forth have been from of old, from everlasting. (Micah 5:2)). The city has about 8,000 inhabitants; almost all of whom belong either to the Roman or Greek Churches. The busy streets and market-place are full of life and noise.
This is the market town of the Bedouins, and many sons of Ishmael are seen with their spears, swords, and guns—true representatives of Esau! How unlike Jacob, the perfect man, delighting to sit in the tent in peace and meditate upon the wonderful works of the God of his fathers, Abraham and Isaac! The chief place of interest here is the Church of the Nativity.
The spacious nave is the oldest monument of Christian architecture. Here, in A.D. 1101, Baldwin was crowned king. In one of the caverns St. Jerome dwelt, and wrote many of his theological works. This church is especially used by the Roman Catholics, and the Greeks and Armenians. The space allotted to each section is minutely measured off. The different parts of this great edifice call more to mind the ancient heathen temples than a place of worship of the humble Nazarene. Some of the images of the Virgin and Joseph, of other saints, are decked with costly jewels. To our surprise, we found armed Turkish soldiers guarding the various chapels; and as we were the only visitors in the church, we inquired why so many guards were required. If their presence was intended to watch our movements, I did not feel in any way flattered, as I could not think that our movements exhibited justification for suspicion. We found, however, that these soldiers were not there to watch us, but that they were always stationed in the sanctuary, their presence being necessary, as otherwise the different communities would rob each other's property. On many occasions the Greeks have stolen the eyes of the Virgin and St. Joseph, some of these having been most costly and precious jewels set in the images. Our dragoman solemnly said, "What an awful sin it is to steal the eyes and teeth of the Mother of God!”
We then entered the Grotto of the Nativity, which is a large cave in the rock. Turning on one side we beheld a recess, and then gazed on a silver star on the pavement, on the spot where the Lord was born. Above this star there are sixteen silver lamps always burning.
From this place we turned to the Chapel of the Manger. Here, Ibrahim informed us, the wooden manger was found, which precious relic we saw when in Rome in the Church of St. Maria Maggiore. Another object of interest was the altar of the Magi, the supposed spot where the Eastern wise men worshipped and presented gifts. For a few minutes we looked over the Chapel of St. Joseph, the spot where Joseph retired at the time of Christ's birth. Here the angel is said to have appeared unto him, commanding him to flee with the Child and mother to Egypt. After visiting the Altar of the Innocents, where the victims of the cruel massacre are said to have been buried, we paid a visit to the Milk Grotto.
This is curiously interesting. Tradition affirms that before the flight to Egypt, the Virgin and her Divine Infant hid themselves here. Small cakes mixed with the dust of the rock are eagerly purchased by superstitious women, who reverently eat them. For five-pence we purchased half a dozen cakes. Although the great edifice is full of altars, legends, &c., yet we cannot but believe that the Church of the Nativity most probably stands on the real place where the Son of the Most High was born. Doubtless the caves in the hill-side adjacent to the inn were used for the cattle, particularly when the inn was crowded, and that in such a cave Christ was born.
It is, at any rate, a tradition of most ancient Christian antiquity, and was accepted about a hundred years after the occurrence by Justin Martyr. St. Jerome also was a firm believer in it, and many others of high authority.
The idolatrous altars and associations, however, fill the heart with contempt as we realize that the sacred and humble place is profaned by gross idolatry, alas! by the name of Christian worship. We left, and were soon introduced to a sturdy, rough-looking Bedouin, whose company was necessary for the safety of our further journey to the Dead Sea, Jordan, and Jericho. That a rough-looking savage was to be our guide did not inspire us with confidence. Ibrahim, however, assured us that this Bedouin belonged to the powerful tribe inhabiting the mountains on our way, and was a perfect guarantee for our safety. We therefore tried as much as possible to appear men of courage, and fearless pilgrims. As we left the city and looked again on the lovely landscape, we thought of the shepherds who heard the music of the angelic choir, and we sang as we rode along—
Hark the herald angels sing
Glory to the new-born King;
Peace on earth, and mercy mild,
God and sinners reconciled.
Thankful and glad for having visited Bethlehem, and realized that for the first time in our lives we were on the soil somewhere near the spot where the Redeemer was born, we continued our journey to the Jordan, so familiar to every Bible student. The landscapes all round Bethlehem are most charming. For the first hour from the city the eye constantly rests on objects of, beauty, majesty, and even wonder. Soon, however, we leave the lovely fields and orchards, and pass into rough, rugged, and somewhat dangerous territory. On, on we go, and now everything that meets the eye is unutterably wild. Now and then a fierce-looking Arab, riding on a camel, with a long spear at his side, salutes us with a salaam, and our Bedouin guide and Ibrahim quickly respond, "Uvalekom salaam" ("And unto you be peace").
The heat of the sun is more and more intense, and the air grows more oppressive; and, for our encouragement, we are informed by Ibrahim that we shall find the atmosphere and journey more inconvenient the farther we go.
The journey became a constant ascent and descent of perilous mountain paths. Some parts are so precipitous that we frequently expected to fall. Ibrahim, however, encourages us. “Don’t fear, M. Englishman; English are brave, and fear not." What else could we do, but muster up courage and exhibit the fearlessness of a native of Russia? We at last arrived at Mar Saba, a convent of marvelous architectural skill. This convent stands on the edge of the gorge of Kedron. It occupies the mountainous cliff between the two channels, and looks down a precipice of six hundred feet in depth. Many portions of this edifice are cut out of the mountain side. Irregular masses of walls, towers, chambers, and chapels, are perched upon rock terraces that cling to the side of the precipices and are supported by huge flying buttresses.
In the exterior construction of the convent every advantage has been taken of natural caves; some artificial ones are hewn out of the mountains. Here none can enter without a special permit from the patriarch in Jerusalem, but as we were favored with the desired "permit," we boldly rang the bell, and intimated our desire to remain there the night. The massive gate, the only entrance, was soon after opened to us. A monk conducted us to our room. Bedouins and ladies are not permitted to enter the convent. The monks number about sixty, all of whom are under vows of humility, chastity, and poverty. Being of the Greek order, they wear conspicuous high black caps. Their conversation is very pleasant, but, alas! exhibits their great ignorance. After refreshing ourselves and resting after the journey, a monk conducted us through the convent. Its position and architecture, and the wild and majestic scenery, are beyond description. No word-painting of the most eloquent speaker or writer could possibly describe this place—doubtless the most wonderful in the world. The obliging monk took special delight in describing to us the sacredness of the place and the religious duties of its inmates. After a good night's rest, we rose at four o'clock in the morning, and prepared for our journey to the Dead Sea and Jordan.
The journey became more and more weary and fatiguing. The road is rough, and the whole task exhausting; but it richly repays the undertaking, although to the nervous traveler there would possibly be few journeys in the world more trying. While we pass through scenery weird and wild, and are very near the edge of an awful chasm, we are thankful for the sure-footedness of the mules on which we ride. We cross Kedron, and we then have a long and tedious ascent. The view from the top is most inspiring, so we rested a little before reaching the summit, that we might be fresher and more able to appreciate the scenery. We soon reached the top, when a magnificent view burst upon our sight as we beheld the great wilderness of Engedi. Our eye rested on this wilderness, and we were reminded of David's refuge from Saul, and then finding Saul in a cave (1 Sam. 23:2929And David went up from thence, and dwelt in strong holds at En-gedi. (1 Samuel 23:29), and 24.). Starting on another descent, every step seems dangerous, yet the cheerfulness of Ibrahim and the song of our Bedouin break the monotony of the journey.
We passed through the Valley of Fire, on the wild winding roads. Our attention is called to the minaret on the summit of the mountain, and there, we are informed by our Bedouin, is the tomb of Moses.
Having replied that we could not believe in this Moslem tradition, our Bedouin became very earnest, and swore by the beard of the Prophet that the remains of Moses indeed rest there, and that thither the faithful Moslems annually go on a pilgrimage.
Our eyes next rest on most interesting scenery. Close by we gaze upon the Dead Sea, and not very far off is the Jordan. The atmosphere being wonderfully clear, we beheld objects over an area of about one hundred miles. How interesting to look across, and behold the plain of Moab and its mountains! We were reminded of Deut. 34., "And Moses went up from the plains of Moab unto the mountain of Nebo, to the top of Pisgah, that is over against Jericho." As the majestic view was before us, we opened again our Bibles and read the strange and wonderful life of Moses. We were thrilled as we read, "So Moses the servant of the Lord died there in the land of Moab, according to the word of the Lord. And He buried him in a valley in the land of Moab, over against Bethpeor: but no man knoweth of his sepulcher unto this day." We look on Moab and its mountains, and are awed with the picturesqueness of the view. Mrs. Alexander's poem seems more realistic than ever before—
By Nebo's lonely mountain,
On this side Jordan s wave,
In a vale of the land of Moab,
There lies a lonely grave.

O! lonely grave in Moab's land,
O! dark Bethpeor's hill,
Speak to these curious hearts of ours,
And teach them to be still.
With such feelings we continued until we found ourselves at the world's wonder-the Dead Sea. What thoughts are associated with this place! Why is it called the Dead Sea? If no other answer were given, the surroundings here would justify the name. The sea has no living thing in it. The soil for about an hour and a half or two hours' travel from it is barren. A most unnatural gloom overhangs the entire region-no living thing in the water, and only now and then some birds flying across. Here we bathe, and enjoy our swim in the intensely salt water. In endeavoring to swim, the splashing of the water finds its way into our mouths and eyes. And what a strange sensation we had after bathing in this memorable sea! We rest and refresh ourselves with some bread and wine, and then walk round for a little while. By the side of the sea we think of Lot, to whom the surrounding country was an attraction, and of the fact that he settled in this region. We think of the five cities on the plains, and of their inhabitants that sinned against God, and of the destruction that overtook them. We here read with great interest Genesis 19. Round about the eye rests upon the extraordinary salt hills and salt pillars, and we are reminded of Lot's wife. Here Numbers 34:2-122Command the children of Israel, and say unto them, When ye come into the land of Canaan; (this is the land that shall fall unto you for an inheritance, even the land of Canaan with the coasts thereof:) 3Then your south quarter shall be from the wilderness of Zin along by the coast of Edom, and your south border shall be the outmost coast of the salt sea eastward: 4And your border shall turn from the south to the ascent of Akrabbim, and pass on to Zin: and the going forth thereof shall be from the south to Kadesh-barnea, and shall go on to Hazar-addar, and pass on to Azmon: 5And the border shall fetch a compass from Azmon unto the river of Egypt, and the goings out of it shall be at the sea. 6And as for the western border, ye shall even have the great sea for a border: this shall be your west border. 7And this shall be your north border: from the great sea ye shall point out for you mount Hor: 8From mount Hor ye shall point out your border unto the entrance of Hamath; and the goings forth of the border shall be to Zedad: 9And the border shall go on to Ziphron, and the goings out of it shall be at Hazar-enan: this shall be your north border. 10And ye shall point out your east border from Hazar-enan to Shepham: 11And the coast shall go down from Shepham to Riblah, on the east side of Ain; and the border shall descend, and shall reach unto the side of the sea of Chinnereth eastward: 12And the border shall go down to Jordan, and the goings out of it shall be at the salt sea: this shall be your land with the coasts thereof round about. (Numbers 34:2‑12) is no longer a dry description of Holy Writ.
This sea was a border-line of Judah (Josh. 15:1-51This then was the lot of the tribe of the children of Judah by their families; even to the border of Edom the wilderness of Zin southward was the uttermost part of the south coast. 2And their south border was from the shore of the salt sea, from the bay that looketh southward: 3And it went out to the south side to Maaleh-acrabbim, and passed along to Zin, and ascended up on the south side unto Kadesh-barnea, and passed along to Hezron, and went up to Adar, and fetched a compass to Karkaa: 4From thence it passed toward Azmon, and went out unto the river of Egypt; and the goings out of that coast were at the sea: this shall be your south coast. 5And the east border was the salt sea, even unto the end of Jordan. And their border in the north quarter was from the bay of the sea at the uttermost part of Jordan: (Joshua 15:1‑5)). How thrilling a picture the prophetic words of Ezekiel 47:6-126And he said unto me, Son of man, hast thou seen this? Then he brought me, and caused me to return to the brink of the river. 7Now when I had returned, behold, at the bank of the river were very many trees on the one side and on the other. 8Then said he unto me, These waters issue out toward the east country, and go down into the desert, and go into the sea: which being brought forth into the sea, the waters shall be healed. 9And it shall come to pass, that every thing that liveth, which moveth, whithersoever the rivers shall come, shall live: and there shall be a very great multitude of fish, because these waters shall come thither: for they shall be healed; and every thing shall live whither the river cometh. 10And it shall come to pass, that the fishers shall stand upon it from En-gedi even unto En-eglaim; they shall be a place to spread forth nets; their fish shall be according to their kinds, as the fish of the great sea, exceeding many. 11But the miry places thereof and the marishes thereof shall not be healed; they shall be given to salt. 12And by the river upon the bank thereof, on this side and on that side, shall grow all trees for meat, whose leaf shall not fade, neither shall the fruit thereof be consumed: it shall bring forth new fruit according to his months, because their waters they issued out of the sanctuary: and the fruit thereof shall be for meat, and the leaf thereof for medicine. (Ezekiel 47:6‑12) are, as we read them by the side of the mysterious cave, to which, doubtless, the prophet referred.
The solemnity of our meditation was interrupted, while we watched some members of our party trying to swim in the strangely buoyant water. Our bathers could not possibly prevent their feet from flying upwards, although they tried hard to keep them under water. The tormenting heat of the sun made it somewhat too uncomfortable to remain here much longer. We therefore took again to our accustomed, saddles, and our good-natured mules soon enabled us to turn our backs to the Dead Sea. Our previous bathing in the intensely salt sea made us feel rather uncomfortable. Our skin seemed as if irritated with Pharaoh's third plague. Under the circumstances we hurried as fast as our animals could go until we arrived at the Jordan.
At once we hastened to the supposed part of the river where our Lord was baptized. Here we bathe, and with what refreshment and delight ! Afterwards, we sit for a considerable time to rest. Here we made the acquaintance of a traveler. After some conversation, with my Bible in hand, our thoughts naturally are directed to the historical and Scriptural associations of the spot. My German-speaking companion informs me that he is a Protestant, and takes care to impress upon me the fact of his disbelief in all superstitions and mere legends of Christians, Moslems, and Jews. I am delighted to know I am in the company of a Protestant. Soon, however, I discovered that the name Protestant with him implied something very different to that which I had expected.
In conversation I asked, "How did you enjoy bathing in this memorable river?”
"Very much indeed," he replied; and after some little hesitation, added: "By the bye, do we not read about the Jordan in the Bible?”
"Yes, certainly we do!" I answered. "Do you not remember reading of the great Jewish Baptist, and how it is written that there `went out to him Jerusalem and all Judea and all the region round about Jordan, and were baptized of him in Jordan'?”
“Certainly! Certainly! I remember all about it," was his reply, and I was astonished when he further remarked, "Was not Mr. Spurgeon a strong man to have baptized all these in one day?”
I could not help laughing heartily at this statement. I endeavored to assure him that those mentioned were not baptized by the well-known pastor, but it was all no use; my companion declared that I could not be correct in my knowledge of history, as he was certain that Mr. Spurgeon was the great Baptist spoken of in the Scripture. I tried hard to convince him that he was wrong, and that Mr. Spurgeon had moreover never yet even seen the river Jordan. "Oh!" said he, "I don't mean the one you mean." I assured him that Mr. Spurgeon was still alive, and that I had the honor of knowing him and members of his family, and had been a student in the College of which he is President; but for a long time all my speaking seemed of no avail. I read to him Matthew 3, Mark 1, and spoke to him about John the Baptist. My friend, however, was incredulous; he could not accept the name of John or Peter, as he had no recollection of them; but the former name was well known to him.
I found afterward the cause of this gentleman's error. Although nominally a Protestant, yet to him the meaning of the word implied only protesting against every religion! Therefore, alas his ignorance. Yet the association of the name of the beloved pastor of the Metropolitan Tabernacle was still a mystery to me, and the cause of it, I was anxious to discover. I learned, however, that my fellow-traveler had in years past read his sermons in German, and, being ignorant of Scripture truth, through never having read the Word of God, he had evidently, in a confused manner, associated the wonderful events of two thousand years ago with circumstances connected with the life of the President of the Pastor's College in the present day.
After some rest we walked about, and innumerable incidents from Old and New Testament Scriptures occurred to our memory of narratives we had learned from infancy We thought of Jacob, who, with his staff, crossed Jordan. How realistic here, when thinking of Israel crossing this river! We thought of David and Absalom, and others whose names are so closely connected with this Jordan. We thought of Elijah, who-a master of Israel with burning zeal-took hold of his mantle and smote the rushing river and crossed it (2 Kings 2.). We thought also of Elisha, who, with his master's mantle, also smote the river and made a dry passage for himself. We thought, too, of the great Syrian captain, who was cured by washing in Jordan (2 Kings 5.). We also read and thought of Matthew 3:5, 6, 13, 175Then went out to him Jerusalem, and all Judea, and all the region round about Jordan, 6And were baptized of him in Jordan, confessing their sins. (Matthew 3:5‑6)
13Then cometh Jesus from Galilee to Jordan unto John, to be baptized of him. (Matthew 3:13)
17And lo a voice from heaven, saying, This is my beloved Son, in whom I am well pleased. (Matthew 3:17), and many other passages which have made this Jordan so memorable.
Leaving the Jordan we resumed our journey, and proceeded on the way towards Jericho. A good hour's ride brought us to the Valley of Achor. The memories of Joshua and Israel after their defeat at Ai were very forcibly brought to mind as we thought that here Achan and his miserable family were stoned to death. We read the stern words of Joshua, "Why halt thou troubled us? the Lord shall trouble thee this day. And all Israel stoned him with stones. Wherefore the name of that place was called The Valley of Achor"—i.e.., trouble (Josh. 7:24-2624And Joshua, and all Israel with him, took Achan the son of Zerah, and the silver, and the garment, and the wedge of gold, and his sons, and his daughters, and his oxen, and his asses, and his sheep, and his tent, and all that he had: and they brought them unto the valley of Achor. 25And Joshua said, Why hast thou troubled us? the Lord shall trouble thee this day. And all Israel stoned him with stones, and burned them with fire, after they had stoned them with stones. 26And they raised over him a great heap of stones unto this day. So the Lord turned from the fierceness of his anger. Wherefore the name of that place was called, The valley of Achor, unto this day. (Joshua 7:24‑26)).
Onward we went, and we came to Er-Riha, a small village, the houses consisting of miserable mud hovels. This village is a picture of wretchedness and abomination. The people, like their homes, are filthy. The awful stench was enough to produce pestilence for miles round. And yet, filth seems to be a second nature to the people in Er-Riha. Although the place is so wretched and the people dangerous thieves, we determined to have a good view of the spot.
Here was the site of the ancient Gilgal, and it was here that the stones were piled up in memory of Israel's triumph! And here the tribes of Israel pitched their tents the first night that they entered the promised land; and here took place the solemn renewal of God's covenant in the observances of the Passover and Circumcision. Joshua at this place also beheld the captain of the Lord's host with a drawn sword in his hand. The Tabernacle rested here until it was removed to Shiloh. Here was the cradle of Israel's national life, and here Saul was made King. It was here that the brave warriors and friends of David assembled to re-establish him on his kingly throne, on his return from exile. Here lived Elijah, Elisha, and others, and here also was the school of the prophets.
As we beheld the filthy mud hovels, and their inhabitants, it made us feel the necessity of being on our guard, as the people are mostly corrupt rogues. As we gazed upon the landscapes all around us, we read carefully Joshua 4:55And Joshua said unto them, Pass over before the ark of the Lord your God into the midst of Jordan, and take ye up every man of you a stone upon his shoulder, according unto the number of the tribes of the children of Israel: (Joshua 4:5); 1 Samuel 10:88And thou shalt go down before me to Gilgal; and, behold, I will come down unto thee, to offer burnt offerings, and to sacrifice sacrifices of peace offerings: seven days shalt thou tarry, till I come to thee, and show thee what thou shalt do. (1 Samuel 10:8); 2 Samuel 19:40-4340Then the king went on to Gilgal, and Chimham went on with him: and all the people of Judah conducted the king, and also half the people of Israel. 41And, behold, all the men of Israel came to the king, and said unto the king, Why have our brethren the men of Judah stolen thee away, and have brought the king, and his household, and all David's men with him, over Jordan? 42And all the men of Judah answered the men of Israel, Because the king is near of kin to us: wherefore then be ye angry for this matter? have we eaten at all of the king's cost? or hath he given us any gift? 43And the men of Israel answered the men of Judah, and said, We have ten parts in the king, and we have also more right in David than ye: why then did ye despise us, that our advice should not be first had in bringing back our king? And the words of the men of Judah were fiercer than the words of the men of Israel. (2 Samuel 19:40‑43); Hosea 4:15, 9:15; Amos 4:4; 24Come to Beth-el, and transgress; at Gilgal multiply transgression; and bring your sacrifices every morning, and your tithes after three years: (Amos 4:4) Kings 2:1, 4:38. Here a company of young men and some old women came offering us water. If they had even threatened to kill us, as the alternative of drinking the water out of their water-pots, I am not sure which we should have chosen. We refused to drink the water, but offered them bachshish, thinking that it would satisfy them. They took the bachshish given, and continued following us, demanding more. We were annoyed, and asked Ibrahim and our Bedouin guide to rid us of this company of dirty followers, feeling certain that they were dangerous company. All at once our Bedouin, with a voice as of a wild beast, declared most passionately that unless they returned to their homes, and ceased following us, by the head of the prophet he would shoot and kill them, and walk over their carcasses. Evidently they believed in the earnestness of the man, and they blessed and thanked us for our gifts. Very soon afterward we saw them no more. We next found ourselves at the site of ancient Jericho. After inspecting the site we hastened on to the modern city.
The country around is the most lovely and fertile that we ever saw. So far as the land itself and its fertility is concerned, it seems as if the primeval curse has not touched this place. The soil is marvelously productive. Fountains of water pour forth their streams over the picturesque plain. Here we remain for the rest of the afternoon and evening, and slept a night in an inn kept by a Russian. How strange were our feelings; a night spent in Jericho! Our inn is beautifully situated. Splendid orchards were planted round the house. Close by runs a stream of water from the mountains behind. Being very thirsty we gladly drank of the stream, and how delightful it was to realize that this water ran from the brook Cherith. Sitting on the balcony of the inn, the view of the surrounding country was unspeakably charming. The situation of the village and plain was magnificent. Shepherds were leading their flocks, Bedouins were singing war songs, girls were dancing in a most frantic manner for bachshish. With the slightest effort the soil here becomes like a most fruitful garden, and yet how truly the curse still rests upon Jericho. “Cursed be the man before the Lord, that riseth up and buildeth this city Jericho: he shall lay the foundation thereof in his firstborn, and in his youngest son shall he set up the gates of it" (Joshua 6:2626And Joshua adjured them at that time, saying, Cursed be the man before the Lord, that riseth up and buildeth this city Jericho: he shall lay the foundation thereof in his firstborn, and in his youngest son shall he set up the gates of it. (Joshua 6:26); see also 1 Kings 16:3434In his days did Hiel the Beth-elite build Jericho: he laid the foundation thereof in Abiram his firstborn, and set up the gates thereof in his youngest son Segub, according to the word of the Lord, which he spake by Joshua the son of Nun. (1 Kings 16:34)). As the sun was now gradually setting, we undertook a walk round Jericho. How interesting was the view of the Sultan's Spring, probably the very spring which was healed by Elisha.
Here we read with renewed interest the sacred page, "And the men of the city said unto Elisha, Behold, I pray thee, the situation of this city is pleasant, as my lord seeth: but the water is naught, and the ground barren. And he said, Bring me a new cruse, and put salt therein. And they brought it to him. And he went forth unto the spring of the waters, and cast the salt in there, and said, Thus saith the Lord, I have healed these waters; there shall not be from thence any more death or barren land. So the waters were healed unto this day, according to the saying of Elisha which he spake" (2 Kings 2:19-2219And the men of the city said unto Elisha, Behold, I pray thee, the situation of this city is pleasant, as my lord seeth: but the water is naught, and the ground barren. 20And he said, Bring me a new cruse, and put salt therein. And they brought it to him. 21And he went forth unto the spring of the waters, and cast the salt in there, and said, Thus saith the Lord, I have healed these waters; there shall not be from thence any more death or barren land. 22So the waters were healed unto this day, according to the saying of Elisha which he spake. (2 Kings 2:19‑22)). Near the spring is the spot, we are informed, where stood the inn of Rahab the harlot. From thence a magnificent view is to be had of the mountains of Gilead and Moab. It was here that David's servants were shaved by Hanun, son of Nahash.... "Hanun took David's servants and shaved them.... Then there went certain, and told David how the men were served, and he sent to meet them, for the men were greatly ashamed. And the king said, Tarry at Jericho until your beards he grown, and then return" (1 Chronicles 19:4, 54Wherefore Hanun took David's servants, and shaved them, and cut off their garments in the midst hard by their buttocks, and sent them away. 5Then there went certain, and told David how the men were served. And he sent to meet them: for the men were greatly ashamed. And the king said, Tarry at Jericho until your beards be grown, and then return. (1 Chronicles 19:4‑5)). Here King Herod died an awful, well-deserved death. How appalling was the tyrant's death, and how truly do we learn that judgment overtakes all evildoers! Walking back to our inn for the night, we beheld the supposed Mountain of Temptation.
We thought of the humiliation of our Blessed Lord when tempted by Satan. We read, "Again, the devil taketh Him up into an exceeding high mountain, and showeth Him all the kingdoms of the world, and the glory of them" (Matt. 4:88Again, the devil taketh him up into an exceeding high mountain, and showeth him all the kingdoms of the world, and the glory of them; (Matthew 4:8)).
We returned to our inn, and after walking round the orchards we retired for the night. Having slept well, after so many hours' traveling, we rose at four o'clock in the morning, and soon were ready to start. The road was much better now than hitherto, and we were glad to be able to accomplish the journey with greater ease and comfort, though a continual journey of ascent. The sun began to afflict us as on previous days. No shelter was to be had, and the fresh water in our skin bottles being exhausted made this part of the journey very unpleasant. At length we arrived at the supposed Khan where the Good Samaritan rested, with the rescued man. Here for a short time we stayed, and refreshed ourselves with coffee. We pressed on our way homewards. At the Khan we joined a large company of Russian pilgrims who were going our way: and being able to converse with them freely, the time passed pleasantly, until we arrived at the quiet village of Bethany.
Here we dismounted, and walked through the narrow rugged streets. Boys and girls, and old men and women, followed us, asking for bachshish, and we granted their earnest requests. They freely gave us a load of blessings, which we took with us to the tomb of Lazarus. Here we were provided with candles, and a good-natured old Arab woman conducted us to where Lazarus was buried. From thence we went to the house of Martha and Mary, which ancient ruin was in splendid condition. Into this ruined house we entered, and how thrilling was the story as we read it aloud to our English and Russian companions (John 11.). We also had a memorable prayer-meeting. Never before had we joined with Russian-Greek Catholics in prayer. An old priest with his company poured out their hearts in thanksgiving for bringing them safe from their long journey, and prayed that God's grace would be given them to be true and willing servants, as were Martha and Mary, and we heartily prayed with them. Then we returned to Jerusalem, most probably by the road along which Christ traveled on the remarkable day when Hosannas pierced the sky as the Son of God drew near the City of David. As we rode, some on mules and some on asses, we met groups of pilgrims, and looking towards the city, with its splendid dome of the Mosque of Omar and the towers and minarets, we were almost overcome with emotion as we thought of the Son of God, and the greetings that welcomed Him when approaching the city:
"Hosanna to the Son of David;
Blessed is He that cometh in the name of the Lord;
Joyfully let us meet Him!
Lovingly let us greet Him!
Blessed is He that cometh in the name of the Lord!
Hosanna ! Hosanna I Hosanna in the highest!
Hosanna! Hosanna! Hosanna in the highest!
Echo His wondrous praises in the sweetest accord!
Lo! every valley ringeth!
Tidings of joy He bringeth;
Blessed is He that cometh in the name of the Lord.