DAMASCUS AND LEBANON
Thou blessed Heir of all the earth!
Ascend Thine ancient throne,
And bid the willing nations now
Thy peaceful scepter own.
EVER memorable will the time of refreshing, with the dew of Hermon, be to me. We were now prepared for the rest of the journey. Our eyes were now turned to the most ancient city of the world. DAMASCUS WAS BEFORE us! What an inspiration! Onward, was our watchword. We passed the spot where Saul, on his errand of slaughter, was met by the Prince of Mercy and Peace. We read the wonderful description on the spot—
“As he journeyed he came near Damascus; and suddenly there shined round about him a light from heaven, and he fell to the earth, and heard a voice saying unto him, Saul, Saul, why persecutest thou Me?" (Acts 9.)
Thus we pressed on. There were splendid groves and gardens and lovely orchards. We were now near to the most ancient city of the world, and we thought of Eliezer, who was so fortunate as to find in this land a lovely Rebekah for his master's son, Isaac, a name interesting to me from my infancy.
Our interest was considerably increased as, from the distance, we beheld a shepherd leading a large flock. We hastened on until we found ourselves in the company of the good shepherd. We entered into conversation through the help of our dragoman, and with the prospect of bachshish the shepherd made himself most agreeable.
“Do your sheep know your voice?" "Yes, oh yes," he answered. To convince us of the truthfulness of his statement, we presently dismounted, and engaged in friendly conversation; then, all at once, the good-natured shepherd called out for one of the sheep: to my agreeable surprise the one called came out from the multitude of the flock, and came to its master; a few more words from the gentle shepherd, and the animal laid itself down, like a child would at its mother's knee. With peculiar delight I realized the words of our blessed Lord: "I am the Good Shepherd, and know My sheep, and am known of Mine" (John 10:1414I am the good shepherd, and know my sheep, and am known of mine. (John 10:14)). "My sheep hear My voice, and I know them, and they follow Me" (10:27). Gratified with this Scriptural illustration, we again took to our saddles and went onwards, still in the company of the shepherd.
And as we looked round, the plain of Damascus attracted our admiration. All was verdure and loveliness, and from the distance we could see the city with its minarets. Suddenly we were startled and greatly surprised when the flock which hitherto followed the leader became disorderly. Instead of following all at once many went before and many behind him, some on the right and left; and the shepherd seemed in the center with us. The secret of the sudden commotion was soon explained: a gentle stream running from Lebanon was before us, and the sheep, as if by instinct knowing the necessity of crossing the stream, and naturally afraid of the water, hasted to be in the immediate presence of their kind leader. We came to the stream; it was shallow. Many of the flock crossed, when, turning round, I was surprised to see that only a part of the flock had crossed the stream. I was anxious to know what the shepherd's next move would be. I did not wait long; the shepherd calling several times, the sheep on the other side looked up as if recognizing the voice of a faithful friend—wistfully looked—but yet their timidity did not inspire them with confidence to cross the stream. The shepherd then returned to them; they all at once surrounded him. Slowly again he entered the cool stream. A beautiful sight it was! Yet all were not over the water. Looking round we saw a goodly number on the other side. Three times the shepherd repeated the crossing after the timid. Again looking round, still there were some, though very few, behind. The shepherd several times called for them; yet not one of them put a foot into the water. The dog was now sent after them, and certainly he tried hard to bring them to their master. The sheep ran from the dog and he ran after them, yet it was a failure. The shepherd then took the best and the most gentle course, and finding the sheep would not by themselves nor by the medium of a dog come to him, he therefore returned to them. Soon all was well. Most pathetic was the sight when the shepherd took a lamb in his arm, and also one on his shoulder and tenderly carrying them, and the other few by his side, thus all crossed—not one left behind. Thus with a united flock we went onward until the gates of Damascus were before us.
We entered the city full of gardens, orchards, and vineyards, and were refreshed and charmed by the rivers Abanah and Pharpar. When we left the kind shepherd, we gave him bachshish with pleasure; we received his salaams, and soon after found ourselves in a very pleasant hotel, and were delighted with the hospitality. It was a hotel truly Oriental in its furnished apartments, and yet it had some touches of Occidental comfort to make us feel side of the rivers Pharpar and Abanah. An attendant gave us shoes, and we gave him the pleasure of changing our shoes for those we had on our weary feet. After looking at the place of ablution where several followers of the Prophet seemed to enjoy the ceremonial washing, it was interesting to see men in prayer. As we walked about, thrilling memories crowded our memory. A few years ago it was certain death to a Christian or Jew who entered this Mohammedan sanctuary; now, for bachshish, the most sacred places can be visited. A great crowd was present, sitting on the floor cross-legged; their minister, in the same posture, facing them all, with a small desk before him, read and expounded the Koran to his hearers. Strange, that during this service we could walk about and take notes of what we saw, and is not this a sign of the times?
In this city we spent several days. We intended to go to Palmyra, but the heat was so great that we decided to cross Lebanon, and as soon as possible to leave the "land of my fathers," and return to the "land of my wife and children.”
Time and space forbid us to relate all that we saw in Damascus; we therefore hasten through it, walk through the bazaars and other numerous places, and with pleasure walk through the street called Straight, which no doubt is straight enough for Orientals, but to us "Franks" the street called straight is somewhat crooked.
During the few days here, I visited most of the Jewish synagogues, made the acquaintance of some of my Jewish brethren—some converts, others silent disciples, and some open and fearless inquirers. All spoke most highly of the Rev. Peter Sherman, a Jewish convert, once a missionary in that city. It was most pleasurable to hear them speak of that brother in terms of affection, and gratitude for the spiritual good they had received from his wise and devoted ministrations. Our sojourn here was now at an end. Our arrangements being all completed again, we took our seats in the carriage, and with peculiar interest we crossed the mountains of Lebanon, and was struck by the contrast of the beautiful snow and the burning sand.