GENNESARETH.—CÆSAREA PHILIPPI
This earth to Him, the Lord of all,
No kindly welcome gave;
In Israel's land the Savior found
No shelter but the grave.
HAVING rested at Tiberias, we moved our tent and started on our onward journey. The territory we now traversed was full of Scriptural and historical interest. The scenery was wild, yet our rambles on the shores of the Sea of Galilee were delightful. For some time, feeling that the ground was too sacred to be trodden by the feet of beasts, we dismounted, and walked a considerable distance.
The meditations we enjoyed at the very early hours in the morning solemnized us, more particularly as we noticed the volcanic aspect pervading the entire region. We felt that it was an interesting neighborhood, yet we were not inspired with a sense of security, and, as the heat became intense, we found the walk very exhausting. However, we took to our saddles, and rode on as well as we could in the tropical climate. Nature wisely dictated to us not to go too far, and not to exert ourselves too much in the tremendous heat. We therefore dismounted, and whilst we were waiting for our servants to pitch our tent, wherein to rest for a few hours, we found shelter under the shadow of a rock. There we laid down and slept for a short time, and sleep was most refreshing. When we woke we found it comparatively cool, for the great rock spread its shadow over us. We thought of Psalm 17:88Keep me as the apple of the eye, hide me under the shadow of thy wings, (Psalm 17:8), a prayer so natural to a soul oppressed and in trouble, and also of Isaiah 32:22And a man shall be as an hiding place from the wind, and a covert from the tempest; as rivers of water in a dry place, as the shadow of a great rock in a weary land. (Isaiah 32:2).
While we rested here a company of Jews passed us who were going on a pilgrimage to Safed to worship at the shrine of Rabbi Simon. I rose from under the shadow, and we rambled about, conversing on the hope of Israel. My heart almost melted as I listened to their earnest expressions of hope that Messiah must surely soon come and deliver Israel from its present wretched condition. I invited them to come under the shadow of the rock where my rugs were spread, and offered them some refreshment. They very willingly accepted my invitation, and came with me. I instructed my muleteers and cook to make coffee, but at once the Jews expressed the desire that I should not give them coffee, as they could not conscientiously drink it if prepared by the hands of Gentiles. I offered to make it for them, but this also they refused. I gave them oranges, which they gratefully accepted. We then entered into a lengthy discussion concerning the claims of Christianity. To this, however, they would not listen. The term Christianity to them seemed a sound of horror and detestation. I fully sympathized with them when I found that they were natives of Russia and Romania, where they are so bitterly oppressed. In the conversation I continued with them, I took care to drop the word Christianity, which, alas! they understood not, but used the term Messiah, which was acceptable to them. I distributed Hebrew tracts, which they were glad to receive. We read together Isaiah 4., and I reminded them of Messiah's advent, whose saving power gives deliverance from sin, and of the happiness of believers who rest under His shadow (Isaiah 4:66And there shall be a tabernacle for a shadow in the daytime from the heat, and for a place of refuge, and for a covert from storm and from rain. (Isaiah 4:6)). These Israelites bade us a friendly farewell, and we continued to rest. Our tent was now pitched, and we changed our short abode, and after several hours' rest started for a night journey. Our animals, Arabs, and ourselves, having rested through the day, were now prepared for traveling in right earnest. On every hand we could see nothing but barrenness, mournful silence, and solitude. It was hard to realize that for generations busy cities full of life and prosperity existed here (Numbers 34:1111And the coast shall go down from Shepham to Riblah, on the east side of Ain; and the border shall descend, and shall reach unto the side of the sea of Chinnereth eastward: (Numbers 34:11); Joshua 12:33And from the plain to the sea of Chinneroth on the east, and unto the sea of the plain, even the salt sea on the east, the way to Beth-jeshimoth; and from the south, under Ashdoth-pisgah: (Joshua 12:3)).
Round about here were the scenes of our blessed Lord's most wonderful deeds. Here nine cities were the spheres of Christ's mission of mercy. Who can traverse these shores without thinking of ancient Capernaum, Chorazin, and the two Bethsaidas?
We thought of the Lord of glory cast out of His own home at Nazareth, making His home in Capernaum, in the borders of Zebulon and Nephthalim, and thus was fulfilled the prediction of the prophet Isaiah, "The land of Zebulun, and the land of Nephthalim, by the way of the sea, beyond Jordan, Galilee of the Gentiles: The people which sat in darkness saw great light; and to them which sat in the region and shadow of death light is sprung up" (Isaiah 9:1, 21Nevertheless the dimness shall not be such as was in her vexation, when at the first he lightly afflicted the land of Zebulun and the land of Naphtali, and afterward did more grievously afflict her by the way of the sea, beyond Jordan, in Galilee of the nations. 2The people that walked in darkness have seen a great light: they that dwell in the land of the shadow of death, upon them hath the light shined. (Isaiah 9:1‑2); Matthew 4:15, 1615The land of Zabulon, and the land of Nephthalim, by the way of the sea, beyond Jordan, Galilee of the Gentiles; 16The people which sat in darkness saw great light; and to them which sat in the region and shadow of death light is sprung up. (Matthew 4:15‑16)).
We thought of the multitude that gathered round Him of whom was said, "Never man spake like this man," and His marvelous words (Matthew 13.). What parables were spoken here Those of the Sower, the Grain of Mustard Seed, the Leaven, the Treasure hid in a Field, a Merchantman seeking Goodly Pearls, a Net cast into the Sea. What wonderful words of life were these, spoken somewhere near here!
We passed on and viewed well the Land of Gergesa. We thought of the two possessed with devils coming out of the tombs, and the Son of God casting out the devils and causing them to enter into a herd of swine, who ran down violently a steep place into the sea and were destroyed (Matthew 8:28-3428And when he was come to the other side into the country of the Gergesenes, there met him two possessed with devils, coming out of the tombs, exceeding fierce, so that no man might pass by that way. 29And, behold, they cried out, saying, What have we to do with thee, Jesus, thou Son of God? art thou come hither to torment us before the time? 30And there was a good way off from them an herd of many swine feeding. 31So the devils besought him, saying, If thou cast us out, suffer us to go away into the herd of swine. 32And he said unto them, Go. And when they were come out, they went into the herd of swine: and, behold, the whole herd of swine ran violently down a steep place into the sea, and perished in the waters. 33And they that kept them fled, and went their ways into the city, and told every thing, and what was befallen to the possessed of the devils. 34And, behold, the whole city came out to meet Jesus: and when they saw him, they besought him that he would depart out of their coasts. (Matthew 8:28‑34)).
We thought also of Christ walking on the sea and rescuing His disciples (Matthew 14:2525And in the fourth watch of the night Jesus went unto them, walking on the sea. (Matthew 14:25)). It was now becoming dark, and as it was cool we followed our dragoman earnestly and patiently. The road was sometimes very slippery. Every now and then we were filled with consternation when we noticed the dangers before us. We were at a considerable height, and the view of the sea growing monotonous. Every now and then our horses would gently carry us on the brink of an awful chasm. By the advice of the dragoman we did not use the reins, but allowed our animals to take us along, although the nearness to such awful chasms made us full of fear and trembling. The further we went the darker it became, yet we patiently followed our dragoman. We were afraid, yet were silent, and tried to exhibit the Englishman's courage, but we wondered if we should see daylight again. Trying as this was, a still greater trial overtook us. The muleteers, with tent, kitchen, and other luggage, were a considerable distance behind us. Our little company was therefore reduced to four persons, consisting of our dragoman, one muleteer, a German gentleman (who was my fellow-traveler), and myself. If our servants, who were behind, had been with us, we would have been a company of ten men and some thirteen or fourteen beasts of burden. Had we kept together, the journey would have been more cheerful and less anxious. Thus the four of us pressed onward in the dark and lonely country of the Galileans, when all of a sudden, when crossing a small streamlet, with a grove of trees near us, we were startled by beholding three Bedouins, armed with swords, guns, and spears, all at once coming out from under the trees. They jumped up on their horses, two of them getting before us, and one following behind. The harsh words greeted us, "Friends or foes?" to which our frightened muleteer answered, "Friends!”
“What countrymen are you?" was the next question. This was at once answered by the same muleteer. "We are Arabs and Franks.”
The rough Bedouin voices again shouted out, "Where are you going to?”
A.—To Banyas.
Q.—Where are you coming from?
A.—From Tiberias.
Q.—Why do you travel by night?
A.—Because it is too hot by day.
Q.—How far are you going to-night?
A.—Until we get tired, and can go no further.
Q.—How long before you will be tired?
A.—Not for some time yet.
The muleteer having answered these questions, at once became silent, and the dragoman also was as dumb. My European fellow-traveler and myself felt terribly afraid, yet I said, "Trust in the Lord and be not afraid." For several minutes in perfect silence we went on, the two armed savages before us, and one behind. After a suspense of several minutes the three wretched Bedouins struck up a war song, the tones of which we had heard when going from Jerusalem to Jordan, sung by the Bedouin guide we then had. As soon as we heard their song we knew that they meant no good. Yet what could we do? Silently we went on, when all at once the three savages left us and vanished.
We then asked the dragoman if he thought we were in danger. He did not answer us; this did not reassure us. On, on we went. How we longed for daylight! Glad as we were when the Bedouins vanished, yet we were uneasy, because in the stillness of the night we could overhear them. We knew that they followed us. Our muleteer was himself afraid and cowardly. Our dragoman was dumb.
Thus we pressed on with fear and trembling until we arrived at the extreme end of the Lake Gennesareth. Now we descended into the calm valley. We tied our horses to trees. The muleteer soon made a fire—coffee was also made, and our little company, with anxious hearts, refreshed themselves. Yet we watched, believing the Bedouins would soon be upon us. Our dragoman had a six-chambered revolver which, alas! he could not use; he tried hard to fire, but could not, till at last by accident it went off. The noise of the firearm in the perfect calm of the night was most astounding: the echo and re-echo traveled. Still we anxiously looked out; fearing the Bedouins would surely spring upon us. All our party were lying with our faces towards the rocks before us. How terribly our imagination tormented us; every tree seemed before us like the armed Bedouin. We certainly thought that that would have been our last night on earth. We felt certain that the Bedouins were not far off. No doubt the large fire we had, and the firing-off of the dragoman's revolver, made them more careful before attacking a small party of four, who dared to make themselves conspicuous with so large a fire and trying their firearms. Thus, we were in bitter anxiety. Lying on the ground, I drank my coffee, and, must confess half unconsciously, sang "Safe in the arms of Jesus." Suddenly I was interrupted in my song.
We all heard a voice from the top of the rocky hill before us; we gazed, but to our terror we beheld a Bedouin on horseback. He asked a question, which the muleteer answered.
Q.—What are you singing?
A.—A song of peace.
Q.—In what language is that song?
A.—In the language of the Franks.
Q.—What is the meaning of it?
The muleteer, who understood not a word of English, hesitated for a few seconds, and then freely translated my song; and the following he gave as a translation of " Safe in the arms of Jesus”:—
We are men of peace
For peace we live,
For peace we will die;
For peace we will spend our treasures,
And for peace will spend our lives.
But if foes will come to disturb our peace,
We will desperately fight,
Until we will bathe in their blood
And tread on their carcasses.
I should think that the free translation of the hymn must have made for a while a good effect. Doubtless the intruders felt that we could not, if unprepared for an attack, lay on the ground sipping coffee, fire a revolver, and sing so emphatic a song of peace.
We still waited and watched, our hearts palpitating as we never felt before. And suddenly we were overwhelmed with joy when we heard the noise of ringing bells on horses and mules; we knew that the remainder of our party with luggage were coming on. The dragoman and muleteer at once sprang to their feet, and shouted with all their powers, calling the servants with luggage, &c., to come quickly. From the distance we heard the response, "We are coming, we are coming. Peace be with you, and the mercy of God.”
We now took again to our saddles, and the dragoman and muleteer at once gathered courage and began to sing, and those that were behind us also started their song; thus the noise of the singers broke the stillness of the night. We ascended the rocky hill, rejoicing with joy unspeakable, and thankful to God for so far having been delivered. Soon our whole party were united. We were now a strong caravan, and boldly passed onwards until we were weary and exhausted. At last we were delighted to find ourselves at Banyas, or the ancient Cæsarea Philippi. Here our tents were soon pitched, and we slept for several hours, and were refreshed. We then rose from our slumbers, and took our rambles.
When we pause by the wayside, all weary and faint,
And would sit down discouraged, and full of complaint,
Oh sing! and the wearisome care will have fled,
As we sing of the rest that is waiting ahead.
As the wanderer sings in some far-away land,
Of his own sweet, sweet home on a beautiful strand,
So we sing as we journey still onward to God,
Of the home that is ours, where the angels have trod.